CRESTED GECKO HEATING AND LIGHTING:
Crested Geckos require low levels of UVB lighting if you do not feed a food with vitamin D, like Pangea or repashe. If you want to use UVB, use it for for 10 hours of the day, this should be between 2-7% UVB and 10-30%UVA, and example bulbs would be an arcadia 5% euro range bulb or a 7% ARC-POD. A low wattage heat bulb (40-50w) in either moonlight blue or infrared is the best heating option as it will raise the ambient air temperature in the enclosure to within the preferred range. Find Crested Gecko Lighting here.
CRESTED GECKO TEMPERATURE PREFERENCES IN CAPTIVITY:
Crested geckos will survive being kept at room temperature in captivity but this is not optimal and it tends to slow down their growth rates and affect their digestion. The optimum temperature range is between 22-27C, we prefer to keep ours at around 25-26C. It is important to note that if the temperature exceeds 28C crested geckos do not fare well and prolonged temperatures above 30C will prove fatal.
CRESTED GECKOS DAILY MAINTENANCE:
On a day to day basis we change the water in crested gecko enclosures so that it is fresh, and using a mister we will give a light spray of water around the enclosure
either once or twice per day, we also spot clean any visible waste such as poo’s or uneaten food and provide with fresh food.
BABY CRESTED GECKO DIET – CRESTED GECKO FEEDING:
Crested geckos are omnivorous meaning they will eat a variety of different things. In the wild they would eat insects, nectar and rotting fruit. Therefore we need to cater for their dietary requirements as best we can in captivity. We feed both live insects and REPASHY crested gecko diet (which is a powdered diet you make up using water, this replaces the fruit and nectar that they would eat in the wild). We tend to use crickets as a feeder insect as they are active at the same time as the geckos.
Tiger CRESTED GECKO FEEDING ROUTINES
The feeding routine we use is on day 1 we put live food in, on day 2 we put artificial diet in, on day 3 we leave the artificial diet in but don’t add any more food. By day 4 we remove the artificial diet and add live food (therefore repeating the process every three days). As far as quantities go we recommend adding about 15-20 crickets every three days per gecko and a tablespoon of artificial diet every three days per crested gecko. If you find your crested gecko isn’t eating as many insects and the number in the enclosure is gradually increasing adjust the amount you’re adding by reducing it a bit. Do make sure that there are enough insects for your gecko to be able to find them; at any given time if you can’t visually count at least 10 insects chances are your gecko/s are struggling to find them.
BABY CRESTED GECKO SUPPLEMENTS:
We recommend supplementing every insect feed by dusting the insects in Nutrobal (calcium and multivitamin supplement), you do not need to add any additional supplementation to the Repashy artificial diet. If you are using T5 High output UVB lighting, use calcium dust or another similar calcium supplement without vitamin d3 in it.
Tiger CRESTED GECKO SIZE & GROWTH:
If kept under optimum conditions crested geckos grow at a remarkably fast rate when they hatch they weigh approximately 1g and within 6 months they will weigh 15-25g and should reach an adult size between 12-18 months of age at approximately 40-45g in weight. They reach sexual maturity at around 18 months of age but have been known to breed from 12 months.